Saturday, January 20, 2007

San Francisco and Its Lost Characters

There is a fine line between being a vagrant, and being what they used to call "a real character."

San Francisco is the place where the line has been historically blurred. It's one place where you can arrive with a fortune, and die in fairly short order with nothing to your name except your name -- and a name that drips with a spurious meaning, to boot.

Take the now-revered figure that was Emperor Norton, the self-proclaimed potentate of Mexico, and all of North America. He donned a ludicrously ornate, threadbare military uniform, and strutted the streets of old San Francisco, invariably trailed by two stray, mongrel dogs named Bummer and Lazarus. Well, they weren't really stray. They went with Emperor Norton everywhere -- even to the theatre. The emperor was what we might call today homeless. He came to San Francisco a rich man but ended up broke. That's still easy to do. But he was colorful, and harmless, funny, and contributed to a nascent, ramshackle seaport that was bulging with people -- almost all men -- who were seeking gold.

He was also as mad as a March hare. He fit in just fine.

One advantage of writing about a character is the facts don't always have to be accurate. I mean, who's going to know? The most far-fetched exploit will be readily accepted. When Lazarus died,
thousands of San Franciscans followed the body of the beast to the cemetery. But another version asserts that Lazarus, run over by a fire engine, was stuffed by a taxidermist.

Now, the difference between being a "character" and being what was once called a "bum" is the measure of your contribution to myth and lore. This requires a certain sense of humor, and a benign sort of presence. Being a curmudgeon was all right. That's part of the ragtag, hardscrabble pioneer image. You had to have a sense of humanity. And you had to have some schtick. Props, for example.

Norton had his uniform, and his hounds. The columnist/author Warren Hinckle, truly a rare, contemporary character, has his eye patch and his ubiquitous basset hound. We have other characters. Lawrence Ferlinghetti is not only a character, he's a man of letters. Herb Gold, with whom Lawrence sometimes disagrees over the legacy of The Beats is certainly a character. Now also in his 80s, Herb keeps up an important part of the tradition: he walks everywhere, and has
traversed the great hills of San Francisco for decades. Neither writer shows any sign of slowing down. I am grateful for that.

There's no question that Michael McCourt, of the famous Irish literary family, is a character. Michael pours drinks at the Washington Square Bar & Grill. He's one of the best storytellers on
the planet, and has a heart as big as Connemara. The Washington Square, dubbed "the Washbag" by Herb Caen, has always been a draw for S.F. characters. They include the great newspapermen Charles McCabe, Stan Delaplane, Harry Jupiter, Sandy Zane, Ron Fimrite, Carole Vernier, and Glenn Dorenbush, who was the best friend a newspaperman could ever have.

Every great city has its great characters, and perhaps proof that S.F. is no longer as great as it once was is found in its paucity of real characters these days.

I heard that Brendan O'Smarty -- remember him? -- got a TV gig down in Australia. Brendan was the dummy who was the partner of SFPD's Bob Geary, who would take the dummy to work with him in the patrol car.

It's not hard to believe that Geary lost a battle to the IRS over whether expenses that the dummy incurred might be deductible. What is hard to believe is that the voters of S.F. narrowly approved a ballot measure that allowed Geary and Brendan to "work" together on the beat
after the department said he couldn't. To this day, the SFPD does not want to talk about Brendan O'Smarty or Bob Geary since they retired.

How much embarrassment you can cause others with impunity is another quality of a real character.

Bruce Bellingham is the author of Bellingham by the Bay, which is a memoir that includes many San Francisco characters. Bellingham's e-mail is bruce@brucebellingham.com

The Stones Are Both Hard and Soft

It was New Year's Day at Perry's on Union Street in San Francisco.
The place was jammed, four-deep at the bar, all eyes fixed on the TV
sets and the football game. Very little could distract the fans,
nursing their hangovers, and watching the score. However, one couple
at the end of the bar was oblivious to football, and the world in
general. Perhaps they'd been up all night, New Year's Eve, because
they were sleepily hanging all over each other for support, giggling
a bit, smooching a bit, drinking a bit.
She was younger than he -- by at least a decade. That's not an
unusual sight at Perry's, one of the last grown-up saloons in the
vicinity.
She turned to the fellow at the next bar stool, and asked if he'd
watch their seats. She explained they had an errand to run.
Twenty minutes passed, and the gal, all aglow, rushed into Perry's
and announced, "Hey, everyone! I'm engaged! Look at my ring."
For a moment, eyes were averted from the television sets. She took
her ring to every person at every table to allow an inspection.
"It's 7 karats," she gushed. "It cost seventy-thousand dollars!"
And so it did.
In short order, a fellow from Simayof jewelers next door came to the
bar, and cleared up a little paperwork, and with the invocation of
two credit cards, the ring was hers.
No, I am not going to drag this sweet story into my customary mire. I
will not mention blood diamonds, Bloody Marys, bluebloods, the bloody
homeless, the deepening, and widening gulf that separates the haves,
and the have-nots. No raining on the leisure-class parade from me. No
crepe-hanging. No sullying the sentiment. No snippy asides. Nope.
Just good wishes, sweet, and salubrious wishes for this fortunate
couple. I'm leaving a tender moment alone. That's right.
Well ... maybe just a few words about my friend, Sascha, who recently
rolled back into San Francisco to get additional treatments for
cancer, and is living through the kindness of strangers. Some of them
include Sister Anne Bertain at St. Dominic's Church. She gives Sascha
credits for food. When she can, Sascha returns with a bit of cash.
It's hard to imagine that this beautiful young woman has to traverse
the streets of this rich city, and hustle a meal, and a scare up a
place to sleep. Worst of all, she's been treated badly by people in
programs that are allegedly designed to help people in trouble. And
Sascha's in trouble. She has no drug or alcohol problem; she's just
lost, for the time being, really lost. I know what that feels like.
Most of do at one time or another.
She's certainly lost weight-- 126 pounds -- that's getting into
Nicole Richie territory.
Sascha got a real runaround from the Social Security people, was told
to take a hike at Glide Memorial's drop-in center. That surprised me
because they helped get me into the hospital in 2005. Maybe things
have worsened. Maybe it was just an off-day. When you're broke, you
are at the mercy of Providence. Someone suggested she go on
craigslist, and sell her body. She doesn't have the stomach for that.
"I get treated like dog dirt," Sascha says demurely. Yes, she was
raised in a very polite home. But politeness, keeping up appearances,
and silence were the order of the day in her house. It hasn't worked
out for Sascha. Not yet. The right-wing likes to snarl witlessly
about "San Francisco Values." To be accurate, the real values are
practiced by Sister Anne Bertain. Real values are demonstrated by
Fern Schneiderman, a social worker at St. Mary's Hospital, who has
extended herself time and again to Sascha. There are many others like
these two women, who go mostly unacknowledged.
Yes, there are 7-karat diamonds in Cow Hollow, and I love splashy,
romantic stories like that. But Sascha, curiously not embittered
about things, is brushing off the dirt, picking herself up, and even
encountering a few jewels of her own along the way.
Good luck, Sascha.

Bruce Bellingham is the author of Bellingham by the Bay. He's
resolved that this year he will complete his second book, with the
working title of The Angina Dialogues. His e-mail is
bruce@brucebellingham.com

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